Sunday, October 2, 2011

Love and Marrow


Anyone who has read Anthony Bourdain's books or seen his show has heard him wax poetic about the joys of eating bone marrow. His "food porn" description of it has always made me want to try it but living in Milwaukee which is a relatively unadventurous town when it comes to such things, has never afforded me the opportunity. However, a recent trip to Roots on Milwaukee's east side, I finally got my marrow. Roots features a lot of locally grown meats and produce and has, rarely for Milwaukee, several vegan options. The night I visited the soup special was a Vietnamese beef broth with bone marrow dumpling. The broth was delicious. The beef flavor was aided by cilantro and a smoky burst of bacon. Cabbage provided a little crunch. And then the dumpling, oh the dumpling. Rich, buttery, with a somewhat pasty texture that reminded me of hummus or bean dip. I understand Anthony. You have never let me down. Well, there was Gabrielle Hamilton's memoir, but thats another post.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Reflections on Vegas

I was in Las Vegas last week. It was the fourth time I had been there and the first time that the occasion was such that I could spend some time exploring the multitude of culinary options the city has to offer. Results are as follows:

Mesa Grill

We were gambling a little bit at Caesar's Palace and decided we were hungry. The only reason Mesa Grill was chosen as our dining spot was that it happened to be the closest place to where we were at the time we decided we were hungry. The place was busy. We had an hour and fifteen minute wait, which was fine, we had no reservation. Our server was friendly and attentive. The table started with the "Cremini Mushroom Quesadilla" which had a cheesy, mushroomy filling and was topped with an over easy egg. When you cut yourself a wedge from the quesadilla, the yolk spilled out, enhancing the dish with all the richness that an egg yolk brings. Spicy salsa verde accompanied the dish, which didn't seem like it would work but did, cutting through all the rich elements without overwhelming them.

My entree was the Fire Roasted Veal Chop, which came on the bone, and was seasoned with horseradish, maple glaze, and sage butter, and was accompanied by a sweet corn and rice tamale. The chop was cooked to a lovely medium-rare. While I found the flavors to be good, the horseradish was a little bit much for me and didn't totally jive with everything else. I'm not implying it was bad, but that horseradish and maple aren't quite a perfect combination for my palette. The tamale was sweet and mild and a perfect compliment to the powerful flavors of the chop.

A dining companion of mine had the New Mexican Spice Rubbed Pork Tenderloin, which came with a dark, spiced exterior and a moist, pink interior. She ordered it as the waiter recommended, cooked to medium, which some people have a problem with when it comes to pork, but attitudes seem to be changing. The seasoning reminded me a little of Manwich, but in a good way, and the pork was juicy and delicious, but maybe a bit too spicy.


Bouchon

I've wanted to try Thomas Keller's food since I became interested in cooking. Living, as I do, in what amounts to a sparse area for culinary talent, you have to venture out to eat the cuisine of the superstar chefs. So, when people asked me where I wanted to go for my birthday dinner, I was all to excited to pick Bouchon in The Venetian Hotel. Perhaps my excitement is why I still have such a sour taste in my mouth, not from the food, but the service.

We initially had a reservation for 5 at 8:45PM. Two additional people wanted to come, so we called and changed the reservation to 7 people, which we were told was not a problem. We were not seated until nearly 10:00. One person at the table didn't receive his beverage, which finally came after 4 requests and 30 minutes of elapsed time. I realize we aren't high rollers, but that doesn't mean we should be ignored.

Food was, as expected, outstanding. I started with a grilled octopus salad, which was on special that night. The octopus was fork tender, sweet, and paired well with the peppery arugula that came with it. My entree was the grilled sturgeon that came with a fricassee of snails, lardons, baby leeks, and was sauced with a parsley emulsion. The fish had a meaty density that I really enjoyed, and the accessories enhanced the dish without taking it over. Several of my dining companions ordered dishes that included Bouchon's famous French fries, which lived up to their reputation.

While the meal was excellent, I'm still a bit irked over the hour wait time after our reservation and my friends AWOL beverage. When you go to a place like Bouchon, you expect to spend a lot of money, but you also expect to be treated right.